How to Scramble: A Beginner's Guide to Class 3 and 4 Terrain

If you love hiking, but you find yourself craving a bit more spice in the scenery, you might be interested in how to scramble.

Scrambling: (verb)

Pronunciation: /ˈskræmblɪŋ/

Definition: Scrambling is a mountaineering term for ascending steep terrain using one's hands to assist in holds and balance. "A scramble" is a related term, denoting terrain that could be ascended in this way. It can be described as being between hiking and rock climbing. Sure-footedness and a head for heights are essential.

Welcome to the world of scrambling—the in-between-adventure between hiking and rock climbing. Scrambling can be wildly rewarding, with less foot traffic, more views, and some serious adrenaline. However, just like all pursuits we enjoy, there are risks, and these risks increase exponentially the higher off the ground we move our feet. Please note, we would never even use the word “safe” with scrambling. It is inherently dangerous. There are best practices we can utilize, which we will cover, but please note that this sport may leave no margin for error.  

Understanding the Dangers of Scrambling

There are various factors in scrambling, similar to all mountain activities, that must be taken into account; rock stability, rock quality, the slope of the rock, and potential rock fall from above. We do not control what the mountains do, when they shift, or how they act, which means the psychological part of scrambling is just as important as the physical. You must be able to remain calm or bring yourself back to calm in the event of an unexpected situation or sudden change in conditions.

The ability to maintain or regain calmness is crucial in scrambling because:

1. It allows for clearer decision-making in potentially dangerous situations.
2. It helps prevent panic, which can lead to hasty or incorrect moves.
3. It enables better physical control, which is essential on difficult terrain.
4. It can help in effectively communicating with climbing partners if assistance is needed.

This mental aspect of scrambling is often as challenging as the physical demands and is a key component of safe and successful scrambling experiences.

Now that we’ve covered the dangers and risks, let’s move into another area you should know before stepping onto that frictiony-slabby-and perilous rock face. 

Decoding the Trail: Scrambling Glossary 

To begin scrambling, you need to speak the language, starting with the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). YDS is a five-step scale that ranks difficulty of terrain, ranging from Class 1 (a walk in the park, literally) to Class 5 (time to break out the climbing gear):

Class 1: Your typical hiking trail. Easy peasy, but don’t roll your ankle.

Class 2: Things get a bit rocky. You might use your hands occasionally, but it's still pretty chill.

Class 3: Now we're scrambling! You'll use your hands a lot, and you'll need to watch your step.

Class 4: This is where it gets real. You're essentially climbing, and a rope might come in handy.

Class 5: Full-on technical climbing. Time to bust out the harness and chalk bag.

Let’s address some other terms you should familiarize yourself with: 

• Exposure: The degree to which a climber is exposed to empty space or a fall. High exposure often means significant consequences in case of a fall.
• Handholds: Places where a climber can grip the rock with their hands for support or to pull themselves up.
• Footholds: Places where a climber can place their feet for support or to push off from.
• Chimney: A vertical crack in rock, wide enough for a climber's body to fit inside.
• Gully: A steep ravine or channel in the mountain, often used as a scrambling route.
• Scree: Loose rock debris covering a slope.
• Talus: A slope formed by an accumulation of rock debris, typically larger than scree.
• Route Finding: The skill of determining and following the best path through terrain.
• Slab: A large, relatively smooth expanse of rock at an angle less than vertical.
• Trundle: The deliberate act of intentionally dislodging and pushing loose rocks off a climbing route. 
• Buttress: A prominent feature that juts out from a rock face or mountain.
• Arête: A thin, almost knife-edge ridge of rock.
• Col: A low point on a ridge between two higher points; also known as a saddle.
• Scrambler's Rappel: A technique for descending steep terrain without a rope, often involving facing the slope and down-climbing.
• Exposure Management: Techniques and mental strategies for dealing with height and exposure while scrambling.
• Alpine Start: An early morning start to avoid afternoon weather hazards and maximize daylight.
• Helmet: May be an essential piece safety gear for protecting against rockfall and impact in case of a fall. (Many Colorado 14ers, for example, call for a helmet.) 
• Approach Shoes: Footwear designed for the approach to climbing areas, offering a balance between hiking comfort and climbing performance.
• Smearing: Use the friction of your shoes against the rock when distinct footholds aren't available. This is common on slab sections.
• Down-climbing: Hugely important in scrambling. Down-climbing means facing the rock and reversing the climbing process 
• Traversing: Moving sideways across a rock face. Keep your weight on your feet and use your hands mainly for balance.
• Mantling: A technique used to surmount ledges or bulges, where you press down on a ledge to lift yourself up.
• Stemming: Use opposing pressure between your limbs to ascend. This is especially useful in chimneys or wide cracks.
• Edging: Use the edges of your shoes on small ledges or protrusions in the rock.

Did we forget any key terms? If you’re an avid scrambler, let us know in the comments—believe it or not, we do read them! 

Body Awareness: Scrambling Techniques

Ok, so, we've covered a lot. We've discussed the dangers of the mountain, the importance of our headspace, and words we should know when we get on the rock face. Now, we can discuss the body. The physical technique for scrambling is important to take note of, as it will make your experience less dangerous and more enjoyable. If you're familiar with the exercise "the mountain climber," you'll have no problem with scrambling technique or best practices. 

Here are the Rules of How to Scramble:

• Three Points of Contact: Always maintain three points of contact. Keep either two feet and one hand, or two hands and one foot on the rock.
• Center of Gravity: Keep your center of gravity close to the rock face. This improves balance and reduces strain on your arms.
• Body Awareness:  Always be conscious of where your body is in relation to the rock. This spatial awareness is crucial for maintaining balance and finding the best route.
• Look Ahead: Plan your next few moves in advance. This helps you maintain a smooth, efficient movement.
• Test holds:  Before you put your weight on a hold, give it a little test—especially if you’re in a less traveled area, where loose rocks have not-yet been trundled. This can help you avoid costly situations. 

Now, let’s discuss your physical body positioning. When scrambling, proper foot placement is crucial for maintaining stability and efficient movement. 

Keep your feet parallel to the slope whenever possible, as this increases the surface area in contact with the rock, significantly improving your grip. On slabby terrain, maximize rubber-to-rock contact by keeping your feet flat against the surface. This technique, known as "smearing," (seen above) relies on friction between your shoe's sole and smooth rock when distinct footholds aren't available. It's particularly useful on low-angle slabs or featureless sections. 

For smaller holds, use the edges of your shoes, (edging), focusing on the inside edge near your big toe for maximum precision and power. When facing steeper terrain, shift your weight onto the balls of your feet to maintain balance and readiness for quick movements. Remember to keep your heels low when possible to reduce calf strain on longer routes. As you move, try to maintain a fluid, balanced stance, keeping your center of gravity close to the rock. This not only improves stability but also reduces arm fatigue, allowing you to climb more efficiently and safely. Practice these techniques on easier terrain to build confidence before tackling more challenging routes.

Remember, while these techniques form the foundation of scrambling, there's no substitute for practical experience. Always start with easier routes and gradually progress to more challenging terrain as your skills improve. Consider taking a course or going with experienced scramblers to further develop your technique and awareness. 

Scrambling Gear: Choosing the Right Footwear

We’ve talked about smearing, edging, and stepping—that’s a lotta feet, and that’s because your feet are everything in the act of scrambling. Equally as important as what your feet are doing is what your feet are wearing. Your footwear can make or break your scrambling experience. You're looking for a few key features:

1. Sticky rubber soles: Look for shoes with specialized rubber formulations designed for rock contact. Vibram® Megagrip and Stealth™ C4 are industry leaders, offering optimal friction coefficients on various rock types. These compounds balance tackiness for grip with durability for longevity. The shore durometer (hardness) of the rubber typically ranges from 60-70A for a good balance of grip and wear resistance.
2. A stiff midsole: Seek a midsole with a flex index between 60-80 (on a scale where 100 is completely rigid). This semi-rigidity, often achieved through a 3/4 length shank, provides necessary support for edging on small holds while maintaining enough flexibility for smearing techniques. Materials like EVA or polyurethane with a durometer of 50-60C are common. This prevents your feet from getting tired. 
3. Lug pattern: For approach shoes that may see varied terrain, seek a lug depth of 3-4mm with multi-directional patterns. The forefoot should feature a "climbing zone" with smoother rubber for increased surface contact on rock.
4. Low profile: Seek an overall stack height (midsole + outsole) of 15-20mm. This low profile lowers your center of gravity, improving stability. It also enhances ground feel, crucial for technical movements. The toe box should have a vertical clearance of about 10mm to allow for toe flexion without compromising sensitivity.

Approach shoes are a popular choice among scramblers. They're like the love child of a hiking boot and a climbing shoe, but they don’t offer a lot of support for long days. If you’re going for a scramble in, say, the Boulder Flatirons, you’ll be fine with an approach shoe like the La Sportiva TX3’s. If you’re doing a 14er, you’ll want something with more support, but still made with sticky rubber. We’re big fans of the La Sportiva Mutant Trail Runners. 

Combining the body technique, solid headspace, and sticky rubber covered in this guide, you’re on your way to some excellent scrambling endeavors. 

Wrapping Up: Your Scrambling Adventure Awaits

Class 3 and 4 scrambling is an incredible way to experience the outdoors. It challenges you physically and mentally, and rewards you with views and experiences that most people never get to see. But remember, safety always comes first. Know your limits, plan ahead and be prepared, (per Principle 1 of LNT) and don't hesitate to turn back if things feel sketchy. And never, ever, “do it for the ‘gram.” 

When you’re ready, with the right knowledge, skills, and attitude, go forth, and get on some technical terrain. We can’t wait to see where your two feet (and two hands) take you. 

Happy scrambling, adventurers!